Thursday, March 26, 2009

Day One

I'm going to post my first two entries in my Russia journal here. I'm stealing internet, and I'm kind of nervous because in Soviet Russia, internet steals you! Anyway, pics will be coming shortly, but you can read about my many adventures in the Motherland!

Wow. What an adventure, and I’m not even in Moscow yet! I’m currently sitting on the plane, it’s 10:00 PM my time but 6:00 AM Moscow time. I haven’t really slept at all, so I’m gonna have horrible jet lag tomorrow. Oh well. We’re flying by Iceland now, according to the screens on the plane, and we just flew over Greenland.
I woke up this morning, got on my plane, and flew to Atlanta, no big deal. Got to Atlanta, sat around the International Terminal, watched some Breaking Bad, laughed at CNN, and tried to read my book about St. Petersburg. While attempting to read, I was sitting by myself at the Moscow gate, about 5 hours before the plane was to leave, when an older man walked right up to me, smiled at me, and said nothing. I looked up, smiled, and looked back at my book, thinking, “Oh no, why me?” Then the man started mumbling in broken English, asking me about customs, when I realized that this man didn’t speak any English and had no real idea what he was supposed to do. At which I said, in Russia, “I speak Russian, can I help you?” The man’s face lit up with a smile, and I knew that I had made my first Russian friend. Turns out that this man’s name is Victor, he’s from Irkutsk, and he was in the US to visit his daughter who lives in Daytona Beach. He wasn’t sure whether he needed to go through Customs in the US or in Russia, so I took him to the information desk and translated for him. After that, we walked back to the gate and talked at length about Russian literature (he likes Pushkin), American literature (Hemingway), Siberia, Pushkin’s family history, and all sorts of other stuff that I know because I sold my soul to the Russian major. I also let him borrow my phone, at which he pulled out a wad of dollar bills and asked how much. I, being a good person, said, “Nothing.” I also helped him to order food at Panda Express. His wife is Chinese, so he claimed to be an expert. I think Victor might have been disappointed in the quality of our airport American Chinese fast food. He asked what Gatorade was, which I couldn’t really explain, but he bought it and claimed that they have some beverage similar to it in Siberia. Then, about an hour before take off, a man with bloodshot eyes, wearing a shirt that said, “My Indian name is Crawling Drunk,” walked/stumbled up to Victor and said hello in Russian. Then he asked about passports and visas. At this point the rest of the Carleton Moscow group showed up, so my attention was briefly diverted. When I started paying attention again, the two were embroiled in a conversation about Pushkin and World War 2. I think the drunk was arguing that the US entered the war late to hurt the Soviet Union. I thought it was funny that 2 Russians that didn’t know each other would end up discussing Pushkin and World War 2. In the end, Victor gave me his phone number in Irkutsk so when we fly to Siberia in May I can go visit him!
So now I’m on the plane, sitting next to a Physics major from Novosibirsk. His father lives in California so he makes the trip back and forth fairly often. He spent the last few days skiing at Lake Tahoe. He seems to be extremely intelligent, he would like to get his PhD in Physics in the United States, but has done all of his undergraduate studies in Novosibirsk. We discussed politics at length, such as the drinking age, legalization of marijuana, Putin, capitalism in Russia, and much more. He was very familiar with the in-flight movies. One thing that both he and Victor have in common is a love of Jack London novels, which isn’t surprising, but I hadn’t thought of it before. Jack London would be the most Russian novelist that America has produced.
I’ve already spoken a lot of Russian, discussed Russian culture in depth, and met 2 Siberians, and I haven’t even reached Europe yet! This trip is going to be amazing.

First day in Russia: very tiring. The plane arrived at 10:00 AM Moscow time, but 2:00 AM Wichita time. I didn’t really sleep on the plane, but once I got off the plane I was fueled by the adrenaline rush that took over my system. Going through Customs and Passport Control was very intimidating, Russian women in military uniform can be very scary. Also, the fact that I have long, blond hair in my passport photo didn’t help at all. Once I got out of the airport, we met Diane, who gave us train and bus cards, 500 Rubles, a plug converter, and documents. Then, Nikolai Nikolayevich drove Megan and I to our homestays.
Russia is not at all like I expected to be. I have never seen so many advertisements anywhere in the world. The shopping centers here make the Mall of America look like a small, scummy mall. There’s a huge Ikea about a mile away from the airport, and I also saw several МакДоналдс during our drive through the city. And what a drive it was. Russian drivers are INSANE. Especially Nikolai, I thought we were going to die about 10 times in the hour and a half it took to get from the airport to my homestay. Moscow is a huge, sprawling city, filled with high-rise apartment buildings that appear to have been built during the Krushchev era. It's very interesting to look at all the cars on the road, the range from old Soviet junk pile to Mercedes and Range Rover is astounding. And the advertisements... Driving through Moscow is an experience every American should have. Moscow streets are eerily similar to the set of Blade Runner.
But the most important part of my day was meeting Galina, my host mom. I think I might have gotten the best deal of anyone (except Nikki cuz she lives with 3 kids and an American). Galina tries very hard to speak English as much as she can, she's very friendly, and her apartment is very nice. I'd guess she's between 65 and 70, she's about 4 feet tall, and she says that her 4 year old grandson will come visit us. I took a nap right after I arrived and slept for 4 hours before I woke up. I gave her the gifts I brought after I woke up. She loved the dreamcatcher I brought her, and wants to put it up in her hallway. She also liked my photo album, especially the picture of the red tree in the yard of my house. After I gave her her gifts, we drank tea and she heated up my dinner. I had a vegetable soup with broccoli, potatoes, carrots, and tomatoes, which was delicious. I got to try Russian bread for the first time, which comes in round loafs and is more similar to sourdough bread than American bread. And the main course she made for me was spaghetti with chicken, which was very delicious.
After dinner I unpacked all of my clothes, and then she asked if I'd like to go out for a walk. Which leads me to my current location. I'm currently at a Coffee House (Кофе Хоус) that's a few blocks down the street from Galina's apartment. I made it very obvious that I'm an American when I walked in because I tried to order at the counter instead of realizing that it's a sit-down coffee house. Oops. But I successfully ordered a green tea, and here I am!
Moscow is becoming very Americanized, but on steroids. Coffee House is a chain, like Starbucks, but you can order beer, wine, or hard liquor. Again, I'm astounded by the amount of advertising I've seen today, it permeates life even more than in the US. Or maybe it's just less subtle.
I only saw a few churches during my drive to the apartment, and 2 building that look like the University. I live very close to Moscow State, as well as downtown Moscow.
Well, that's all I have for now. I'll post pictures at some point, I'm planning on taking about 400 over the next 4 days.

4 comments:

  1. sounds ridiculously awesome. glad to know you're having such a good time. we already miss you.

    tim

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  2. I CANNOT express how excited I am for you to meet up with Victor in Siberia.

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  3. BK!
    that is the greatest story of befriendment i have ever heard. great literature, daytona beach, panda express, asian wives, this friendship is in for the long haul.

    syd

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